With the main course, I love the tangled, long-simmered mix of cabbage and collard greens as a side.īeyond the bandeja paisa, the smoked chicken best frames Jurado’s rigor and skill. It comes with a nightly rotation of meat, often pork belly, so consider the vegetarian version with mushrooms if the meatiness begins to feel like overload.
It’s hard to resist the fluffy, soy-laced Peruvian-style arroz chaufa Jurado wisely portions the fried rice as an appetizer so it isn’t too filling. A mellow ceviche of fish (usually snapper) bathed in blood orange leche de tigre tinted with aji amarillo paste is the lightest starter option. Homemade hot sauce and the wonderfully coarse ají verde brighten everything they touch use them liberally.īuild the rest of your meal around this hearty tour de force. A fried egg and sliced avocado lend their comforting presence. Golden lobes of plantain, smoky beans, white rice and one handsomely griddled arepa filled with queso fresco and corn kernels complete the array. Grilled chorizo or morcilla nestles against the beef, along with an extra-crisp hunk of pork belly scored so deeply that its tall squares of meat and fat resemble skyscrapers on a tight city block. Steak - skirt or flat-iron, depending on the day - fans out in slices across one edge of the plate, hard-seared and woodsy brown on the surface and rosy inside. If you are an omnivore, this should be the focal point of your meal. Quiz them a little, and you’ll learn they’re talking about bandeja paisa, the one-platter feast synonymous with Colombia. Before taking your order, servers likely will mention “steak” as a special, with a long list of accompaniments. The early menu is beautifully streamlined: 10 starters, a handful of entrees, some compelling sides and a few desserts. He installed a fire-breathing hearth, set on display via a window in the bar area, and stacked cords of oak wood out back by the parking lot. Smoky meats would still command center stage in his cooking. Eye-candy dishes, especially when they deliver beyond their visual pop as this one does, have a way of overrunning a kitchen with their popularity - and Selva has plenty of other exemplars of Colombian cuisine that are equally worth ordering. The hot dog is a staple among the restaurant’s weekend brunch items at dinner, it can be requested as an off-the-menu special you have to know to ask for. The joyride of whirling textures and outsize flavors merits the small pile of napkins you’ll need afterward. This is, as you might imagine, a two-handed, face-planting commitment to polish off. A link of taut, paprika-stained Colombian chorizo peeks out from underneath a topsoil of crumbled cotija, charred onions and peppers, jalapeño jam, aioli mixed with salsa verde (a mulchy, punchy Colombian version called ají) and finally, the smashed Lay’s chips dusted with chile powder. Jurado swaps in a tapered bolillo roll for the usual oblong bun. In its rollicking excess, it’s a sight that fairly dares you to bite back. I don’t mean for that to sound unappetizing. It’s similar to Maine’s red snapper in color, but it’s a little longer and spices like nutmeg, allspice, and cardamom give the dog a distinctly different flavor.At first glance, the shape of the super-perro Jurado constructs at his 4-month-old restaurant Selva in Long Beach calls to mind an enormous mouth stuffed with potato chips. Bean & Sons making their hot dogs the old-fashioned way-with natural lamb casing. The “snapper” name alludes to how these bright red sausages “snap” when bitten into.
In Maine, the latter is an iconic style of hot dog. Sometimes Red Snappers are white fish sometimes they’re red meat.
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